Torres Del Paine in Patagonia is the dream destination for many outdoor enthusiasts, hikers and nature lovers alike. It offers boundless opportunities to hike and experience magnificent landscapes and untouched nature, including the famous O- and W-hikes that take days with campsites along the way or even just a few hour hikes that will leave you breathless. Many who travel to Torres Del Paine are experienced hikers, or at least are prepared to spend days outdoors in, at times, rough terrain enduring steep climbs. But what if you have a family of five with three elementary-school age kids, or perhaps toddlers or babies?
Well, here’s what we did (read: don’t do) and some helpful tips to make your trip even more amazing than ours.
Getting to Torres del Paine
First off, let me put out this disclaimer: we decided to go into Torres del Paine with limited preparation and during the shoulder season when weather can be unpredictable. That said, our first step was to plan logistics which included a car rental to fit our family and our luggage for the entire year since we are on a year long around the world tip (if you’re curious, our baggage consisted of 3 carry-on suitcases, a stroller and 2 car seats for the year, for 5 people).
Road Conditions
While most of Torres De Paine roads are in great condition much of it is rough gravel. We were late to rent our vehicle (1,5 months in advance) and upon arrival at the car rental, came to find they only had compact sedans available…a Renault Symbol (a.k.a. the Renault Clio in many European markets). At first glance I was convinced we’ll end up breaking a tire or two, if not finding ourselves stuck somewhere in the middle of nowhere. The vehicle would rattle so loud we couldn’t keep up a conversation, and the dash seemed to pop up from its fittings any minute :D. Dust would creep into the car as the doors weren’t sealed well.
Surprisingly so, we did not have any breakdowns or flat tires…I consider us lucky as we ran into folks with busted tires on cars better equipped for the roads. Tip #1: rent early and pay for the SUV, or at least a larger car with tires meant to handle rough gravel roads. Pay the premium. You’ll thank yourself later.
Car Rentals in Chile
Our travel into Torres Del Paine took longer than expected, mainly as after landing we found the car rental office to be located downtown, not in the terminal.
Tip #2: do the research in advance on where the car rental office is located as not all of them disclose this with 100% accuracy. In this case we had made the reservation based on information available stating the car would be available at the airport. This delayed our departure from Punta Arenas by an hour as we had to make a trip to the city and return on the same highway, past the airport, towards Puerto Natales after picking up the vehicle. It was getting late in the day and we weren’t thrilled about the delay with tired kids in tow. That being said, the rental office was very accommodating, friendly and was able to communicate in English which helped ease our nerves.
Before You Enter the Park
After a few unexpected delays we embarked on our drive to Torres Del Paine. Driving to Torres Del Paine is one of the most beautiful drives you’ll take during your time in Chile. We were excited to encounter wildlife such as guanacos and flamingo along the way. Gusty winds nearly tripped our little subcompact french car :D, but we soldiered on with a mission to get the kids to bed at the hotel in TDP by sunset.
Driving from Punta Arenas, you’ll need 4-4,5 hours to make it to Torres Del Paine with a short stop or two along the way. Fly into Puerto Natales if you can (NOTE: there aren’t many flights available from this tiny airport. We weren’t able to fly a return flight to Santiago with our travel dates from Puerto Natales, hence the decision to fly in and out of Punta Arenas instead).
From Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine
The drive from Puerto Natales to TDP will take you about an hour through mostly untouched, beautiful nature. Take your time to enjoy the sights and if lucky, it’ll be another opportunity to spot wildlife such as the Andean Condor.
Tip #3: Make sure to stock up on food as you arrive in Puerto Natales. Buy snacks and stuff for lunch for your ENTIRE time at the park as you won’t find many, if any grocery stores or mini markets while in or around the park. Some hotels have a “minimercado”, but most do not and rather expect you to eat at the restaurants onsite which are expensive by any standard. We did NOT research this well enough in advance and did NOT buy enough snacks for the kiddos while passing through Puerto Natales. As a result we found ourselves scrambling later to keep the little tummies happy during day hikes. Don’t make the same mistake!
Where to Stay
Once in Torres Del Paine you’ll find a good road network that’ll take you to the most popular hiking spots and sights. Along the way you’ll find an array of hotels, hostels, campsites and lodges to stay at. Staying in Puerto Natales is an option too, but we wouldn’t recommend it with small kids as it’ll add two hours of travel time in your day round-trip.
We stayed at Rio Serrano Hotel which was just outside the park entrance, so it was a great base for day-trips with our kiddos. The indoor play area and a fantastic spa/pool were a welcome relief after a long day in the park. The staff was accommodating and friendly. While the restaurant was expensive, food and service were excellent with a few Chilean specialties on the menu. Breakfast in particular, included in the room rate, was fantastic.
(NOTE: if you’re not camping, hotel accommodation is scarce and VERY expensive inside the park, so book early and plan to dish it out regardless of what time of the year you’re visiting. Rio Serrano was about 1/3 of the cost compared to resorts inside the park, but still a splurge for us.)
What to Do and What to Pack
Given nap schedules and our kids’ ages, at most we could do 1-2 hour hikes with little to moderate climbing. That didn’t stop us from enjoying some breathtaking scenery along the way. Our highlights included a boat ride to Glacier Grey, a handful of short day hikes including Mirador Cuernos, Salto Grande waterfalls and Mirador Condor. All of which gave us the opportunity to spot wildlife along the way including wild horses, flamingos, Guanacos and the Andean Condor.
A (pricey) baby carrier (LILLEbaby CarryOn Airflow) made the hikes a breeze even with our 3-year old in tow. Surely there were many spectacular hikes we would have loved to embark on which weren’t suitable for kids, but we didn’t feel like we were missing out and could still enjoy the best the park has to offer.
The main highlight for our 9-year old, one she still remembers fondly, was to help ready and ride a Patagonia horse named Zanahoria (Carrot). Horseback riding tours organized by the hotel were fully booked during our stay, but the staff was kind enough to let our daughter visit the stalls without booking a dedicated tour. This really made her day and we’re very grateful for it!
Gear: The One Essential Item
Weather at Torres Del Paine can be unpredictable regardless of season. Tip #4a: Make sure to pack a rain layer for the sudden rain (or snow!) shower and 60mph+ winds at any time in the day. During our stay in October the wind picked up in the afternoons which made the hikes challenging at times for our kids. Tip #4b: Because of afternoon winds + if you’re still in nap jail, aim to spend your time at the park in the mornings and leave the afternoons for relaxing at the pool.
With proper planning you’ll be sure to have an amazing time at Torres Del Paine regardless of how old your kids are. Plan for the weather, take your time and enjoy the unique landscapes and nature you won’t encounter anywhere else!
